Richard Chai’s latest fall show on day one of MBFW fall/winter 2013 opened with a moody mix of a new Knife song, “Full of Fire,” that literally had the seats beneath us throbbing, the best kind of fashion jolt for an 11am start uptown. Chai’s upcoming men’s and women’s LOVE collection was a study in contrasts: muted army hues against vibrant violets, metallic flourishes on flat wools, a hint of leather, a pop of floral jacquard, a stark black and white sketch print, abstract florals and minimal plaids.
Oversized coats with dramatic, rolled collars and utilitarian jackets balanced out the slim suits, fitted peplum tops and pencil skirts. Boyish tailoring for some pieces in the women’s collection never came on too strong since Chai made sure to add in a few signature delicate silk slip dresses that were modern twists on 30′s silhouettes, making for an understated, timeless elegance throughout the show.
Standout colors were the emerald satins as well as the plantlike, muddy greens (also touted by Pantone as a Top 10 for the season). Ashlee Simpson, Christina Ricci, Kate Lanphear and Lady Fag made for quite a few paparazzi moments in the front row.